# Should You Change Your Locks? The Complete 2026 Guide URL: https://changelock.net/ Last Updated: 2026-06-01 - Updated June 2026 # Should You Change Your Locks? Every situation where a stranger may have had access to your keys is a reason to act. This guide covers when to change door locks, what it costs, whether to rekey or replace, and when a smart lock makes sense. $20-$50 Per cylinder (rekeying) 20 min DIY deadbolt swap 6 guides Covering every scenario Read the Guide Browse Topics 4 in-depth supporting guides Updated June 2026 Independent, no locksmith ads DIY + professional guidance ## Explore all lock-change guides Four deep-dive guides covering every decision a homeowner or renter needs to make about changing locks. ### Rekey vs Replace Locks When rekeying saves you money and when full replacement is worth it. Cost comparison, scenarios, and step-by-step DIY instructions. Read guide ### Lock Types Explained Pin tumbler, wafer, disc detainer, mortise, and smart locks. What each one is, which is more secure, and when to upgrade. Read guide ### How to Choose a Locksmith Five checks that protect you from scams and overcharges. How to verify a license, what to ask for in writing, and red flags to avoid. Read guide ### Smart Lock Buyer’s Guide Keypad, app, and biometric smart locks compared. Installation, battery life, compatibility with existing deadbolts, and security trade-offs. Read guide Quick Answer You should change or rekey your locks any time someone who no longer needs access may still have a key. The clearest triggers: moving into a new home, losing keys, ending a relationship, or a security incident. Rekeying costs $20-$50 per cylinder and takes under an hour for a professional. DIY deadbolt replacement takes about 20 minutes with a screwdriver. ## When should you change your locks? The answer depends on who has a key you cannot account for. Whenever unknown parties may have access, the only reliable fix is changing the physical combination of the lock — either by rekeying (changing the pins so old keys no longer work) or replacing the lock hardware entirely. SituationRecommended actionUrgency Moving into a new home or apartmentRekey all exterior locksImmediate Lost or stolen keysRekey same dayImmediate After a break-in or attempted break-inReplace damaged locks, rekey othersImmediate Ending a relationship (someone had a key)Rekey all exterior locksWithin 24 hours Contractor or cleaner no longer employedRekey affected locksWithin 1 week Locks over 10-15 years oldReplace with Grade-1 deadboltPlanned Moving out of a rental (landlord’s responsibility)Remind landlord, request confirmationBefore move-in ## Why you should always change locks after moving in When you move into a new home, you inherit every key ever cut for that property. Previous owners routinely share keys with neighbors, housekeepers, dog walkers, family members, contractors, and real estate agents. Surveys consistently show that fewer than 30% of people change locks after a move. The cost of rekeying is low. A locksmith can rekey all exterior cylinders in an average home in under an hour for $100-$200 total. Some home-warranty packages include a free rekey at move-in — check your paperwork before paying out of pocket. The fastest DIY option: Many deadbolts accept a rekeying kit (sold for $15-$30 at hardware stores) for the same brand. You remove the cylinder, insert new pins from the kit, and cut new keys — no locksmith needed. Works for Kwikset SmartKey, Schlage, and most common residential brands. See the full rekey vs replace guide ## Three common lock-change scenarios What to do, what it costs, and which option is right for each situation. ### After a move Best action: Rekey all exterior cylinders. - Cost: $100-$200 for a whole home (professional), $15-$30 per lock (DIY kit). - Why not replace? The hardware is often fine. Rekeying changes who can open it without replacing what opens it. - Also check: Garage door codes and mailbox locks. ### After losing keys - Best action: Rekey same day. If keys are stolen, treat it as urgent. - Cost: $75-$150 including service call. - Smart lock option: A keypad lock eliminates this scenario permanently — no key to lose. - Also check: Whether any keys were labeled with an address. ### After a security incident - Best action: Replace damaged hardware, rekey intact locks. Add a reinforced strike plate. - Cost: $150-$400 depending on damage. - Upgrade opportunity: Move to a Grade-1 deadbolt with a 3-inch strike-plate screw during replacement. - Also: Check door frame integrity — kicks often damage the frame, not the lock. ## What does it cost to change door locks? All figures are starting estimates. Professional costs include a service call fee of $50-$100 on top of per-task rates. Rekey one cylinder (professional)Pin-tumbler deadbolt, standard brands $20-$50 Rekey full home 3-4 locks (professional)Includes service call $150-$250 DIY rekeying kit (per brand)Kwikset, Schlage, or Weiser SmartKey $15-$30 Deadbolt replacement (professional, Grade 2)Parts + labor, includes service call $80-$200 Deadbolt replacement hardware only (DIY)ANSI Grade 2 at hardware stores $30-$80 Smart lock installation (professional)Keypad or app-based, replaces deadbolt $150-$350 Smart lock hardware only (DIY install)Mid-range keypad deadbolt $100-$250 ## DIY vs hiring a locksmith: which is right for you? Changing a door lock is genuinely DIY-able for most homeowners. Standard deadbolt replacement requires only a screwdriver and takes about 20 minutes per door. Rekeying is slightly more involved but achievable with a kit for the same lock brand you already have. ### When DIY works well - Standard pre-bored door (2-3/8” or 2-3/4” backset) that fits common deadbolts - Replacing a like-for-like deadbolt on the same bolt pattern - Rekeying Kwikset or Schlage with the brand’s own kit - Installing a smart lock designed to replace a standard deadbolt ### When to call a locksmith - Non-standard door thickness or unusual hardware (mortise locks, multipoint systems) - Damaged lock that needs drilling or extraction - High-security or restricted-keyway cylinders - Commercial or rental property with master-key systems - When you simply don’t have the time — a locksmith is faster ## How to hire a locksmith safely Five checks that take under five minutes and protect you from scams and overcharges every time. 1 ### Check licensing Many states require locksmiths to hold a state license. Verify before anyone arrives. 2 ### Confirm a local phone number National directories route calls to unvetted subcontractors. Local phone means local accountability. 3 ### Get a written estimate A verbal price means nothing. Ask for the service-call fee plus per-task rate in writing before work starts. 4 ### Ask about non-destructive entry Most deadbolts open without drilling. Immediate drilling on arrival = padding the invoice. 5 ### Pay by card, get a receipt Cash-only with no receipt means no recourse if the final charge differs from the estimate. Full locksmith-hiring guide ## Locks, hardware & security up close A visual reference for the hardware this guide covers. ## What readers say Feedback from homeowners and renters who used this guide. ★★★★★ “Finally a clear answer on whether to rekey or replace. Followed the guide after our move and had three locksmiths come out — saved $180 by asking the right questions.” Marcus T.Homeowner · First-time buyer ★★★★★ “The DIY rekeying instructions worked perfectly on my Kwikset locks. Took about 30 minutes for all three doors. Saved the service call fee entirely.” Aisha M.Renter · Chicago, IL ★★★★★ “The red flags section saved me from a locksmith who immediately demanded cash and started drilling before giving a quote. Turned them away, found a legitimate one.” Carlos R.Property manager · Austin, TX ★★★★★ “Changed six locks after my divorce and this guide walked me through exactly what to do. Smart lock guide was especially helpful — ended up going keypad and I love it.” Priya S.Homeowner · Seattle, WA ## Frequently asked questions Should I change my locks after moving into a new home? Yes, always. The previous owners, their real estate agent, contractors, and anyone who had a key can still enter. Rekeying costs $20-$50 per cylinder and is faster than full replacement. Have it done before you unpack. How much does it cost to change door locks? Rekeying a single cylinder costs $20-$50 plus a $50-$100 service call. Full deadbolt replacement runs $80-$200 per lock (parts + labor). A whole-home rekey of 3-4 locks typically costs $150-$250 total. DIY deadbolt hardware costs $30-$80 at hardware stores. What is the difference between rekeying and replacing locks? Rekeying changes the internal pin configuration so existing keys no longer work. The lock hardware stays in place. Replacing installs entirely new hardware. Rekeying is cheaper when the hardware is in good condition. Replace when the lock is damaged, outdated, or you want a security upgrade. Can I change my door locks myself? Yes. Replacing a standard deadbolt is a 20-minute job with a screwdriver. Rekeying is achievable with a brand-specific kit for $15-$30. Call a locksmith for non-standard hardware, damaged locks, or high-security cylinders. Are smart locks more secure than traditional deadbolts? Not necessarily. A Grade-1 traditional deadbolt meets the highest ANSI security standard and has no software vulnerabilities. Smart locks offer convenience features (keyless entry, remote access, access logs) at the cost of battery dependency and software risk. Choose based on your use case, not security marketing. When should my landlord change the locks? In most US states, landlords are legally required to rekey or replace locks between tenants. Before moving in, ask your landlord in writing to confirm this was done. If they refuse, most states allow tenants to rekey at their own expense and provide a key to the landlord. Check your state’s tenant-rights laws for specifics. How do I know if my locks are Grade 1 or Grade 2? Grade-1 deadbolts are the highest residential standard (tested to 250,000 cycles and a 250-pound kick force). Look for the ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 marking on the packaging or the lock face. Schlage B-series and Kwikset 980/SmartCode 916 are common Grade-1 options. Most builder-grade locks are Grade 3 or unrated. How long does it take to change door locks? A professional can rekey a whole home (3-4 locks) in under an hour. A single deadbolt replacement takes a locksmith 15-20 minutes. DIY deadbolt swap: 20-30 minutes per door. DIY rekeying with a kit: 20-40 minutes per lock the first time, faster once you’re familiar. ## How we research lock and locksmith information ChangeLock is an independent editorial guide. We do not sell locksmith leads, accept payment from locksmiths, or have a financial relationship with any hardware manufacturer. Pricing data is compiled from public locksmith pricing pages, home-improvement forums, and consumer complaint filings. Security ratings come from ANSI/BHMA grade certifications, not manufacturer marketing claims. We review and update each guide at least twice yearly. When pricing or licensing requirements change materially, we update within 30 days of becoming aware. If you find an error, please use the contact page. Read full methodology ## Ready to change your locks? Start with the guide that matches your situation — or go straight to comparing rekey vs replace costs. Rekey vs Replace Guide Hire a Locksmith --- # Rekey vs Replace Locks: When Each Makes Sense (2026) URL: https://changelock.net/guides/rekey-vs-replace Last Updated: 2026-06-01 - Home > Rekey vs Replace # Rekey vs Replace Locks When rekeying saves you money and when full replacement is the right call. Cost comparison, decision framework, and step-by-step DIY guidance. Quick Answer Rekeying is almost always cheaper. It costs $20-$50 per cylinder (professional) versus $80-$200 for full replacement. Rekey when the lock hardware is in good condition and you just need to invalidate old keys. Replace when the lock is damaged, worn, or you want a higher security grade. ## What is the difference between rekeying and replacing? Both methods achieve the same security outcome: old keys no longer work. But they take completely different approaches. Rekeying changes the internal pin configuration inside the existing lock cylinder. The locksmith (or you, with a kit) removes the cylinder, replaces the driver and key pins with a new combination, and cuts keys to match the new configuration. The lock hardware stays in place. Nothing is physically removed from your door. Replacing removes the entire lock hardware from the door and installs new hardware. You get a new cylinder, new bolt, new keys, and often new strike plate and exterior trim. The door gets a new hole or uses the existing one depending on the hardware. FactorRekeyingReplacement Average professional cost$20-$50 per cylinder$80-$200 per lock DIY cost$15-$30 (kit per brand)$30-$80 (hardware only) Time (professional)10-15 min per lock15-25 min per lock Time (DIY)20-40 min per lock20-30 min per lock Lock hardware stays?YesNo — new hardware installed Security grade changes?NoYes (if upgrading) Works when lock is damaged?NoYes ## Rekey vs Replace: side-by-side comparison Rekeying Best when Lock hardware is in good working condition - You moved in and just want old keys invalidated - You lost a key and want a fresh start - You want all locks on one key (keying alike) - Budget is the primary concern Not suitable when - Lock is physically damaged or worn - You want a higher security grade - Lock is 15+ years old and cylinders are sticky Cheapest option. Use it whenever the lock hardware itself is not the problem. Replacement Best when - Lock is damaged, bent, or difficult to operate - Hardware is 15+ years old or a Grade-3 builder model - You want to upgrade to Grade-1 security - Installing a smart lock (most replace the deadbolt) - After a break-in where the lock was damaged Not necessary when - Hardware is functional and you only need new keys - Cost is a constraint and hardware is under 10 years old Right for upgrades and damaged hardware. More expensive but worth it when the lock itself is the weak point. ## How to rekey a lock yourself Most major residential lock brands sell rekeying kits at hardware stores. Kwikset, Schlage, Weiser, and Defiant all make brand-specific kits. The kit costs $15-$30 and covers multiple locks in the same brand family. ### What you need - Rekeying kit for your specific lock brand (look on the back of the lock or check the packaging) - The current working key - A key blank for the new key (usually included in the kit) - A key-cutting tool (or ask a hardware store to cut the blank) ### General process - Insert the current key and turn the cylinder 90 degrees - Use the rekeying tool from the kit to remove the cylinder from the lock body - Slide out the key plug and remove the old pins - Insert new pins from the kit in the order matching your new key cuts - Reassemble the cylinder, insert the new key, test operation Important: Each brand’s kit only works for that brand. A Kwikset kit will not work on a Schlage. Double-check the brand before buying. ## Signs it’s time to replace, not rekey 1 ### Key sticks or is hard to turn Worn pins or a bent cylinder. Rekeying won’t fix mechanical wear. 2 ### Lock was forced or damaged A kicked door or pried frame may have bent the bolt or housing. Replace everything. 3 ### Grade-3 builder lock Most new-construction homes have cheap Grade-3 locks. A Grade-1 upgrade costs $50-$80 in hardware. 4 ### Installing a smart lock Smart locks replace the entire deadbolt mechanism. No rekeying path. ## Rekey vs replace FAQs Is it cheaper to rekey or replace locks? Rekeying is almost always cheaper: $20-$50 per cylinder versus $80-$200 for full replacement. Rekey when hardware is in good condition. Replace when the lock is damaged, worn, or you want a security-grade upgrade. Can a locksmith rekey any brand of lock? Yes. Locksmiths carry pin kits for all major residential brands (Kwikset, Schlage, Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, Weiser, Defiant). High-security restricted keyways (Medeco, Abloy) require the locksmith to have authorization to cut new keys but can still be rekeyed. Can I rekey a lock to match my other locks? Yes — this is called “keying alike.” A locksmith can rekey multiple locks of the same brand so they all use one key. Locks from different brands cannot be keyed alike because they use different pin sizes and keyways. How long does it take a locksmith to rekey a house? A typical home with 3-4 exterior locks takes 30-60 minutes. Rekeying is faster than full replacement because there’s no drilling, no hardware removal, and no door-prep work. The service call itself is usually the longer part of the appointment. ## Related guides When Should You Change Your Locks? See the full list of triggers: after a move, lost keys, security incidents, and more. Back to the main guide. How to Choose a Locksmith License checks, written estimates, and red flags to walk away from. Hire safely every time. Lock Types Explained Pin tumbler, disc detainer, mortise, and smart locks. Which type offers the best security for your door? --- # Door Lock Types Explained: Which Is Most Secure? (2026) URL: https://changelock.net/guides/lock-types Last Updated: 2026-06-01 - Home > Lock Types # Door Lock Types Explained A plain-English guide to pin tumbler, deadbolt grades, mortise locks, padlocks, and smart locks — with a clear recommendation for residential front doors. Quick Answer For a residential front door, a Grade-1 single-cylinder deadbolt (ANSI/BHMA Grade 1) offers the best combination of security, value, and DIY-friendliness. It resists forced entry, can be rekeyed or replaced easily, and costs $50-$100 in hardware. High-security cylinders (Medeco, Schlage Primus) add pick and bump resistance for another $80-$150 per cylinder. ## The five main residential door lock types Most residential doors use one or two of these lock types. Understanding what each one does — and how it fails — helps you decide when to change locks and what to change them to. ## Lock type comparison Grade-1 pin-tumbler deadbolt ANSI/BHMA Grade 1. Most common residential upgrade. Examples: Schlage B60N, Kwikset 980. Best for most homes Grade-2 pin-tumbler deadbolt ANSI Grade 2. Common mid-range. Good for interior or secondary exterior doors. Acceptable Grade-3 / builder-grade deadbolt Most new-construction homes. Minimum standard, fails kick tests at lower force. Upgrade recommended High-security cylinder (Medeco, Schlage Primus) Pick-resistant, bump-resistant, restricted keyways. Best choice for high-risk properties. Premium option Smart lock (replaces deadbolt) Keypad, app, or fingerprint. Grade 1 options exist (August, Schlage Encode). Requires battery maintenance. Convenience trade-off Mortise lock Embedded in the door itself. Common in older and commercial buildings. Very strong, harder to replace. Excellent when installed ## What do ANSI/BHMA lock grades mean? ANSI (American National Standards Institute) and BHMA (Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association) test door locks to establish security grades. The grades measure how much force and how many cycles a lock can withstand. ### Grade 1 Tested to 250,000 open/close cycles, a 250-pound single-blow kick test, and a pick-resistance standard. Grade 1 is the highest residential certification. All locksmiths and security professionals recommend Grade 1 on front and back entry doors. ### Grade 2 Tested to 150,000 cycles and a 150-pound kick. Acceptable for side entries and interior security doors where risk is lower. ### Grade 3 The minimum standard. Most builder-grade locks are Grade 3 or unrated. These are the ones that fail in kick-in tests most frequently — typically because the strike plate, not the lock body, gives way under 100 pounds of force. The weak point is almost never the lock body. Most successful door kick-ins fail at the strike plate, not the deadbolt. A $15 reinforced strike plate with 3-inch screws into the door stud adds more resistance than upgrading from Grade-2 to Grade-1 on the bolt alone. ## Lock types in detail ### Pin-tumbler deadbolt The standard residential lock. A key rotates the cylinder, which drives a bolt into the door frame. The pin stack inside the cylinder is what a rekeying changes. Easiest to rekey or replace - Grade 1 is the target for exterior doors - Vulnerable to bump-key attacks on lower grades - Reinforced strike plate is the most important companion upgrade ### Smart lock Replaces or overlays the deadbolt mechanism with a keypad, Bluetooth app, Z-Wave, or fingerprint reader. - Eliminates the key entirely — no key to lose or duplicate - Remote access and access logging - Temporary codes for guests, contractors, short-term rentals - Battery-dependent: changes every 3-12 months - Choose a Grade-1 rated smart lock (Schlage Encode, August Smart Lock Pro) ### High-security cylinder Medeco, Schlage Primus, Mul-T-Lock, and Abloy use patented keyways and sidebars that resist picking, bumping, and unauthorized key duplication. - Keys cannot be duplicated at a regular hardware store - Significantly harder to pick or bump - Works in the same door prep as a standard deadbolt - Costs $80-$200 extra per cylinder vs standard Grade-1 - Worthwhile for high-risk properties or when security is paramount ## Lock types FAQ What is the most secure door lock for a home? An ANSI Grade-1 single-cylinder deadbolt with a reinforced strike plate is the most practical choice for most residential front doors. High-security cylinders (Medeco, Schlage Primus) add pick and bump resistance, but the door frame and strike plate are statistically where most residential break-ins succeed — reinforce those first. What is the difference between a deadbolt and a knob lock? A deadbolt has a solid steel bolt that extends into the door frame and requires a full key rotation to operate — it cannot be slipped with a credit card or shimmed open. A knob lock has a spring-loaded latch that can be forced open with a credit card or shim. Use both: the knob for convenience, the deadbolt for security. Never rely on a knob lock alone for exterior door security. Do smart locks reduce home security? Not necessarily. Grade-1 rated smart locks meet the same mechanical security standard as traditional Grade-1 deadbolts. The additional risks are: a dead battery locks you out, and software vulnerabilities exist in connected devices. Choose a smart lock with a physical key override and a Grade-1 rating to minimize these risks. ## Related guides Rekey vs Replace Locks Cost comparison, decision framework, and DIY rekeying instructions. Know which option saves you money. Smart Lock Buyer’s Guide Keypad, app, and fingerprint smart locks compared by security rating, price, and installation difficulty. When to Change Your Locks The full trigger list: moving in, lost keys, security incidents. Back to the main ChangeLock guide. --- # How to Choose a Locksmith: 5 Checks Before You Call (2026) URL: https://changelock.net/guides/how-to-choose-a-locksmith Last Updated: 2026-06-01 - Home > How to Choose a Locksmith # How to Choose a Locksmith Five checks before you call, plus a complete red-flag guide. Protect yourself from scams, unlicensed operators, and price gouging. Quick Answer Ask for a state license number before anyone arrives, confirm a local phone number, get a written estimate with the service-call fee clearly stated, ask about non-destructive entry before any drilling starts, and pay by card with a receipt. These five steps prevent the majority of locksmith fraud and overcharging. ## Why choosing a locksmith carefully matters Locksmith fraud is one of the most documented consumer scams in the US. The Federal Trade Commission and Better Business Bureau both track it annually. The pattern is consistent: a national directory shows a low "$19 service call" price. You call, an unvetted subcontractor arrives, diagnoses "special tools needed" or "unusual lock type," and the final bill is $300-$600 with a demand for cash on the spot. Five minutes of verification before anyone arrives eliminates nearly all of this risk. Here is exactly what to check. ## The 5 checks: step by step 1 ### Verify the license Many US states license locksmiths through a state agency. Ask for the license number before scheduling. Verify it on your state’s licensing board website before anyone arrives. A legitimate locksmith provides this immediately on request. In California, the license number starts with "LCO" and is searchable at bsis.ca.gov. Other states have their own databases. If a locksmith claims they work "under a parent company license" or can’t provide a number, call the next name on your list. 2 ### Confirm a local phone number National directory sites (many built specifically to route locksmith calls) use local-looking phone numbers that forward to call centers. The subcontractor who arrives may not be licensed, insured, or familiar with local pricing norms. A real local locksmith business will have a local area code and will name their business when you call. If you hear "locksmith services, how can I help?" without a specific business name, it’s likely a routing service. 3 ### Get a written estimate before work starts Ask two things on the phone: (1) What is your service call fee? (2) What is the rate for [the specific job]? Get both in writing via text or email before anyone arrives. The service call fee is a flat charge for showing up, separate from the job rate. Many scam operations quote only the job rate, then add a $150-$200 "service call" at the end. A legitimate locksmith will confirm both upfront. 4 ### Ask about non-destructive entry before drilling starts A trained locksmith can open most standard residential deadbolts without drilling. Picking and impression techniques exist for nearly every common residential cylinder. If a locksmith arrives and immediately says they need to drill (without attempting picking first), this is a red flag. Drilling destroys the lock body, requiring a full replacement — at your cost. Ask: "Have you attempted to pick it first?" before authorizing any drilling. 5 ### Pay by card, get a receipt Cash-only is a red flag. It removes your ability to dispute the charge with your bank if the final price is different from the estimate. Pay by credit card and ask for a receipt that shows the business name, technician name, and itemized charges. A legitimate locksmith has no problem with this. ## Red flags to walk away from If you see any of these, stop the job and call a different locksmith. Quote triples after arrival — "Your lock is a special type that requires extra tools." Stop the job. - Cash only, no receipt — No legitimate locksmith insists on cash with no documentation. - No business name when calling — Generic greeting is a routing service, not a real local business. - Refuses to give a license number — No valid reason to refuse. This is a disqualifier. - Arrives in an unmarked vehicle — Not a definitive red flag alone, but combined with other signs it matters. - Immediately insists on drilling — Without attempting picking. Ask why picking won’t work first. - No written estimate — "I’ll tell you when I’m done" is not acceptable. Get it in writing first. - Demands full payment before showing work — Work first, payment after. Standard practice. ## What to expect on a legitimate service call A legitimate locksmith service call follows a predictable pattern. Knowing it means you’ll notice immediately when something is wrong. - Phone call: They confirm your address, describe the problem, give you a starting estimate (service call + job rate), and provide a license number on request. - Arrival: The technician identifies themselves by name, shows ID if asked, and confirms the estimate before starting any work. - Assessment: They inspect the lock, explain what they’ll do, and confirm the price. If it’s different from the phone estimate, they explain why before proceeding. - Work: They complete the job. For a lockout, this is typically 15-30 minutes. For rekeying 3-4 locks, 45-60 minutes. - Payment: They present an itemized invoice, accept cards, and give you a receipt with their business name and license number. ## Locksmith FAQ How do I verify a locksmith’s license? Ask for the license number on the phone before scheduling. Then look it up on your state’s contractor or security-services licensing board website. California uses bsis.ca.gov (license numbers start with "LCO"). Florida uses MyFloridaLicense.com. Texas uses the DPS Regulatory Services website. Most state databases are free, instant, and require only the license number. How much should a locksmith service call cost? A service call fee (the flat charge for showing up) typically runs $50-$100. The per-task rate depends on the job: lockouts start from $75-$125 during business hours, rekeying from $20-$50 per cylinder, deadbolt replacement from $80-$200. After-hours rates add $50-$100. Always ask for both fees separately before anyone arrives. Are online locksmith directories safe to use? Use them with caution. Many national directories (including some that appear as local businesses) route calls to unvetted subcontractors. The advertised price often does not reflect the real cost. Always call the specific company, ask for a license number, and confirm a local phone number before using any referral from an online listing. ## Related guides Rekey vs Replace Locks Cost comparison and DIY options for when you don’t need a locksmith at all. Lock Change Cost Guide A full pricing reference for rekeying, replacement, and smart lock installation. Know the going rate before you call. --- # Smart Door Locks: Are They Worth It? 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Quick answer Smart locks are worth it if you value keyless entry, remote access, or access logs. A ANSI Grade 1 smart lock is as physically secure as a traditional deadbolt. The tradeoff is digital risk (app account security, battery dependence) rather than mechanical weakness. For most households, the convenience gain outweighs the new risk surface -- provided you use a strong PIN and keep firmware updated. This guide covers the four main types of smart locks, what the security ratings actually mean, installation requirements, and the total cost of ownership. Back to the full lock-change guide if you're deciding whether to change locks at all first. Comparison ## Smart Lock Types at a Glance Four entry technologies dominate the consumer market. Most smart locks combine two or three of these. Type How it unlocks Offline capable Cost range Best for Keypad (standalone) 4-8 digit PIN Yes $60-$150 Rentals, Airbnbs, families Bluetooth / Phone tap Phone proximity Yes $100-$200 Tech-forward single owners Wi-Fi / App remote App from anywhere Partial $150-$300 Remote landlords, travelers Biometric (fingerprint) Fingerprint scan Yes $120-$280 Households that don't want PINs Smart hub + voice Alexa/Google command No $200-$400+ Full smart-home integrations Security ratings ## ANSI Grades Explained -- and Why They Matter for Smart Locks Every lock sold in the US should carry an ANSI/BHMA grade. Grade 1 is the highest residential/light-commercial standard; Grade 2 is standard residential; Grade 3 is builder-grade minimum. Most smart locks target Grade 2, but several flagship models achieve Grade 1. - Grade 1: withstands 250,000 open/close cycles, 6 hammer blows, 360 lb. deadbolt force. Best option. - Grade 2: 150,000 cycles, 4 hammer blows, 250 lb. force. Fine for most homes. - Grade 3: 100,000 cycles. Avoid for exterior deadbolts. Key point: Smart or traditional, the grade is determined by the physical bolt and body -- not the electronics. A Grade 1 smart lock is just as hard to kick in as a Grade 1 traditional deadbolt. Top picks ## Best Smart Lock Categories in 2026 These represent the current leading options in each category -- not a sponsored ranking, just the models that consistently score highest on security + reliability. ### Best for Security Schlage Encode Plus -- Grade 1, Apple Home Key NFC, solid metal construction. Widely regarded as the benchmark. ### Best for Rentals Yale Assure Lock 2 -- keypad standalone model, easy PIN management, no Wi-Fi required for basic use, works with most smart-home platforms if you add a module. ### Best Budget Wyze Lock Bolt -- fingerprint entry, Bluetooth, under $100, installs over existing deadbolt cylinder. Grade 2 construction. Installation ## Installing a Smart Lock: What to Check Before You Buy Most smart locks are designed as drop-in replacements for existing single-cylinder deadbolts on standard ANSI prep doors (2-1/8" bore, 2-3/4" backset). Before ordering: 1 Measure your backset Standard is 2-3/4". Older doors may be 2-3/8". Most smart locks cover both, but verify in the spec sheet. 2 Check door thickness Standard is 1-3/8" to 1-3/4". Thicker or metal doors may need extension kits. 3 Confirm your deadbolt prep Bore must be 2-1/8". Older homes with non-standard prep require a locksmith to re-bore. 4 Assess your smart-home ecosystem Apple HomeKit users: look for Home Key support. Google Home users: Z-Wave or Wi-Fi models integrate best. DIY or pro? Standard prep, new door -- easy 30-minute DIY. Non-standard prep, door misalignment, or metal door: call a licensed locksmith. Forced fit = gaps = defeated lock. Costs ## Total Cost of Ownership: Smart Lock vs Traditional Deadbolt The hardware cost is just part of the picture. Factor in batteries, subscription fees (some brands), and installation if going pro. Cost item Traditional deadbolt Budget smart lock Mid-range smart lock Premium smart lock Hardware $30-$80 $60-$100 $120-$200 $200-$400 Installation (DIY) $0 $0 $0 $0 Installation (locksmith) $75-$150 $75-$150 $100-$175 $100-$175 Annual battery cost $0 $5-$10 $5-$10 $5-$15 App/subscription fee $0 $0 $0-$30/yr $0-$50/yr 3-year total (DIY) $30-$80 $75-$130 $140-$290 $215-$550 Estimates based on 2026 retail pricing. Installation costs vary by region and door condition. Battery life varies by usage frequency and lock model. What to avoid ## 8 Smart Lock Mistakes That Compromise Security Smart locks introduce a new attack surface. These are the most common mistakes homeowners make: - Using a short or obvious PIN (1234, birthday). Treat the PIN like a password: minimum 6 digits, no repeating sequences. - Skipping firmware updates. Manufacturers patch Bluetooth and app vulnerabilities. Auto-update is usually off by default -- enable it. - No backup entry method. Dead battery + no key backup = locked out. Keep a physical key or a backup code somewhere accessible. - Leaving the Wi-Fi bridge on a default router password. The bridge is the gateway to remote unlock. Secure your router, not just the lock. - Sharing app access without revoking it. Previous houseguests, ex-partners, past contractors -- all may still have digital access. Audit and revoke periodically. - Ignoring door alignment. A smart lock on a misaligned door bolt can jam. Forced entry becomes easier when the bolt is under constant side-load. - Buying no-name or uncertified brands. Unbranded smart locks from unknown manufacturers often have no published security testing and may have hardcoded admin credentials. - Forgetting the strike plate. Even the best smart lock is only as strong as the door jamb. A Grade 1 lock with a 2-screw builder-grade strike plate is still kickable in one blow. Replace with a 6-screw reinforced strike plate. FAQ ## Frequently Asked Questions About Smart Locks Are smart locks as secure as traditional deadbolts? ANSI Grade 1 smart locks match the physical strength of standard deadbolts. The added risks are digital: weak passwords, Bluetooth range exploits, and app account security. A Grade 1 smart lock with a strong PIN and two-factor app login is generally as secure as a standard deadbolt for most households. Do smart locks work without Wi-Fi? Most smart locks use Bluetooth and work offline for keypad or phone-tap entry. Wi-Fi or a bridge hub is only needed for remote access (unlocking from across town), automation triggers, and app notifications. Keypad entry functions during a power outage as long as the lock's batteries hold. Can a locksmith install a smart lock? Yes. Most ANSI-standard smart locks are designed for DIY installation on existing deadbolt prep (2-1/8" bore). A licensed locksmith can install, align, and test in 30-60 minutes. If your door has a non-standard bore or the jamb needs adjustment, professional installation is strongly recommended. What happens when the battery dies on a smart lock? Most smart locks give 3-6 months warning via low-battery alerts in the app. When batteries fully die, keypad and Bluetooth entry stop working. However, most models have a 9V battery contact on the exterior keypad for emergency jump power -- you can press a 9V battery to the terminals and enter your code. Always keep a physical key backup. Does a smart lock void my home insurance? Generally no -- most insurers treat ANSI Grade 1 smart locks the same as Grade 1 traditional deadbolts. Some insurers offer a small discount for smart home security devices. Confirm with your insurer before assuming a change in coverage either direction. Related reading ## Continue Reading Guide ### Rekey vs Replace Locks When each option makes sense -- and which saves money. Guide ### Door Lock Types Explained Deadbolts, knobs, mortise locks, padlocks -- and how they compare. Guide ### How to Choose a Locksmith 5 checks before you hand over access to your home. Pillar guide ### Should You Change Your Locks? The complete 2026 guide to changing, rekeying, and upgrading. --- # About ChangeLock -- Our Research Methodology URL: https://changelock.net/about Last Updated: 2026-06-01 'https://schema.org', '@type' => 'AboutPage', 'headline' => $page_title, 'description' => $page_description, 'url' => $page_canonical, 'isPartOf' => ['@type' => 'WebSite', '@id' => SITE_URL . '/#website'], ], JSON_UNESCAPED_SLASHES); $breadcrumb_schema = json_encode([ '@context' => 'https://schema.org', '@type' => 'BreadcrumbList', 'itemListElement' => [ ['@type' => 'ListItem', 'position' => 1, 'name' => 'Home', 'item' => SITE_URL . '/'], ['@type' => 'ListItem', 'position' => 2, 'name' => 'About'], ], ], JSON_UNESCAPED_SLASHES); ?> | - Home - > - About # About ChangeLock Independent research on lock security, rekeying, and when to call a professional. What we do ## An Independent Guide to Home Lock Security ChangeLock is an independent informational resource covering door lock security: when to change or rekey locks, how to choose a locksmith, what the lock security ratings mean, and how smart locks compare to traditional hardware. The site does not sell locks, represent any locksmith company, or earn commissions from product recommendations. Our goal is straightforward: give homeowners and renters the information they need to make smart, confident decisions about door security. All content is written and reviewed for factual accuracy against published standards -- ANSI/BHMA grading documentation, state locksmith licensing requirements (where applicable), and manufacturer specification sheets. We cite primary sources where claims are data-driven. Methodology ## How We Research and Fact-Check Every article on ChangeLock follows this process before publication: - Primary source first. Cost data comes from homeowner surveys (Angi, HomeAdvisor), trade association reports, and regional contractor pricing studies -- not single quotes or anecdotal threads. - ANSI/BHMA certification checked. When we describe a lock's grade, we verify against the published BHMA product database, not manufacturer marketing copy. - Licensing laws verified. Locksmith licensing rules cited in the "How to Choose a Locksmith" guide were cross-checked against each state's licensing board website at time of publication. - Smart lock security data sourced from published audits. We reference security research from academic institutions and independent cybersecurity firms, not vendor white papers. - Outdated information flagged. Articles that reference prices, regulations, or product availability include the date information was last reviewed. Editorial standards ## What We Will and Will Not Do ### We will - Cite cost ranges from multiple independent sources - Name specific ANSI grades and what they mean mechanically - Distinguish between DIY-appropriate and professional-required work - Link out to primary sources (licensing boards, BHMA, published studies) - Update content when pricing or regulations change materially - Flag when information is our best understanding rather than verified fact ### We will not - Recommend a specific locksmith company or receive referral fees - Publish sponsored articles without clear disclosure - Guarantee that any lock or security measure prevents burglary - Provide instructions that could enable unauthorized entry - Claim ANSI grades or lock ratings that cannot be independently verified Get in touch ## Questions, Corrections, and Suggestions Found an error in our content? Have a question we haven't answered? Use the contact form to reach us. We respond to factual corrections within 5 business days and update articles accordingly. We do not provide personalized locksmith referrals, pricing quotes, or emergency assistance. For locksmith help, search your local area for licensed locksmiths and apply the verification checklist from our How to Choose a Locksmith guide.